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Next time I have to set a table, I’m going to take a page from chef Joe Shaw, who added a touch of whimsy to the formal setting at The Standard with bowls of key limes and kumquats in lieu of stuffy old flowers. Not only are kumquats vibrant and slightly quirky, they are deliciously tangy—nature’s answer to Sweet Tarts. On a recent evening, I bumped into The Standard owner Josh Smith and his wife, and I prevailed upon them to eat their first kumquats. I wish I had a photo of tho
